Things Digital. Mostly Photographic

This was my third trip to Iceland and I my first solo trip. Traveling alone allowed me to be nothing other than a photographer and traveler. It also meant that all the work of making and breaking camp, cooking meals and making decisions were all mine and mine alone.

So what worked and, inevitably, what did not work (at least to the extent that it is worth complaining about?)

There and Back

jetBlue / IcelandAir – jetBlue handled the direct round trip flight to Boston Logan and was kind enough to wave the (then) newly instated second bag fee. That won’t happen again… The red eye put me and my luggage in Boston 7 hours prior to IcelandAir finishing the trip. My IcelandAir flight was the first of the day so I was stuck with lots of luggage and little sleep until the IcelandAir ticket window opened 5 hours of so after I landed. I was beyond happy to get rid of my luggage.

Especially when compared to jetBlue, IcelandAir seems like a blast from the past. All women cabin crews in tailored uniforms and giant row filling stainless steal carts are the most obvious contrasts to jetBlue. Older 737’s with very little in the way of inflight distractions is another. The fact that they continue to serve meals also makes them a vanishing breed.

And in a final homage to times gone by, both the outbound and inbound Boston to Reykjavik flights were on time.

I will complain a bit about the schedule. IcelandAir hubs in Reykjavik and the flight is timed to land in Europe in the early morning. That is fine if, as most of the people on the plane were, you are headed for Europe. If you jump of in Iceland you wander up to the rental car counter after midnight still facing a 45 minute drive from the Airport into the big city.

Thanks largely to the German cartographer at ourfootprints and my trusty Garmin Nuvi, I drove directly to my favorite place to stay in Reykjavik, GuestHouse Anna. Anna’s is located near the transportation terminal should you take the airport bus into Reykavik. It is also an easy and welcomed walk from Anna’s to the Reykjavik city center. Anna’s is a nice and fairly priced place and she is a gracious and properly eccentric host.

The first batch of hand-made images from my most recent trip to Iceland are up over at WilliamSmitheyJr.com.

More to follow…

Enjoy.

Long ago I found the commercially available camera backpacks to be over-engineered, too heavy and too costly. Sure, encased in pounds of high density foam, your equipment would likely survive a drop of 30 feet. But, I asked myself, how often is this an issue?

My 4×5 equipment lives in a Dana (RIP), front loading Pack with the camera and lenses all safe in Gnass Gear (RIP?) cases. The pack is made for backpacking and other backcountry uses and easily carries 35-40 pounds. The camera infrastructure, the pack and the dedicated bags, weigh just 6 pounds (contrast this to the roughly equivalent Lowepro Photo Trekker which is nearly twice as heavy.) I figure it’s good for no more than a twelve foot drop. No, I’m not going to test it.

As I collected digital camera gear my first impulse was to go the build-it-yourself route. Once again, I needed a pack that was designed to carry well and was a front or panel loader. These are scarce and the ones that are available all had the same flaw – the front “rainbow” zipper stopped far short of the bottom of the pack

As Mark Dubovoy discovered and writes about over at Luminous Landscape the folks at RPT have a nice solution for large format types. The combine a modified Kelty Redwing Pack and custom lens cases into a decent carrying, lightweight system. And, to their everlasting credit, they modify the Redwing Pack so that the front panel zipper extends from the floor of the pack. But the system is intended for large format use…

So I bought one intent on making it work for DSLR cameras and lenses. A visit to the local Real Camera Store ™ solved the problem. Pelican makes a padded divider that fits perfectly and they had one in the back. No I don’t have the model number. Here is the link to the Pelican Case Accessories Page - it’s there somewhere.

The RPT Modified Redwing Pack with the Pelican Case padded divider weigh very little, provide plenty of protection for gear and look like this:

But, this nice carrying, light weight combo is too large for international carry on.

So I fly with a Lowepro All Weather Mini Trekker , which is internationally flyable. The RPT/Pelican Pack collapses well and is packed inside one of my two rolling duffels. I’m 6′2″ and the Mini Trekker is simply unwearable in the field. The pack is too small in every way but in particular, the waist belt is useless and your shoulders take the entire load.

Note how much longer the torso is on the RPT Kelty pack (left.) Also, it is nicely adjustable and has a real, “glad to help with the load,” padded, adjustable waist belt. The dog is Zach and really wanted to be part of this picture. So he is.

When I travel far from home I have two rules. OK, I have lots of rules but two that specifically apply to traveling with photo equipment.

1. Everything that matters (and is allowed) travels with me in the sumptuous confines that are economy class.
2. If any one thing breaks, something else can, more or less, take its place.

So, follows is an annotated list of the camera and lenses I’ll be hauling this year to Iceland.

Camera Bodies

• Canon 1Ds Mark III
• Canon 5D

Yep, two Canon full frames. I don’t expect the 5D will see a lot of work but it is significantly lighter which may earn it some use. A 40D or other APS sized sensor camera would do as well and help with telephoto work. I just happen to own these at the  moment.

Lenses

• EF 14mm f/2.8L II USM ((rented from LensRentals.com)
• EF 17-40 f/4L USM Zoom
• TS-E 45mm f/2.8
• EF 24-105mm f/4L IS USM Zoom
• EF 70-200 f/4L USM Zoom
• Extender EF 1.4x

I’ve gone with the “slow but light” f/4 zoom line. These are good traveling lenses, Hell, these are good lenses under most any circumstances. Most often used on past trips to Iceland were the 17-40mm and the 70-200 zooms. A very nice, lightweight kit would use the 5D, the 17-40mm and the 70-200mm along with the 1.4x extender.

The 24-105, thanks to the nice zoom range and IS, is a great general purpose/walking around lens. However, at times, it isn’t quite wide enough while also not being quite long enough. That said, if I had to go with just one lens… It also can, per the second rule, stand in for either of the other zooms should disaster strike.

The TS-E lens (strangely enough the fastest lens that I own in this set) is along as an homage to my View Camera roots. The shift allows for easy to shoot, easy to stitch, 2:1 or 3:1 panoramas. It also helps, should I need to, keep buildings straight as the folks that built them intended. This is the sharpest lens in the bunch and that, along with tilt and shift, earn it a place on the trip.

The 14mm is along for a number of reasons. I bought and sent (right) back, the original EF 14mm so this is an extended audition of the, by all accounts, much improved version. It also has an f-stop and some real width over the wide end of the 17-40mm zoom. Again, invoking the second rule, the 14mm and the 45 TS-E, odd couple though they are, would do much of the work of the 17-40mm should something dire happen to that lens. Finally, the 14mm as a new-to-me tool, will allow me to approach the trip with a brand new perspective.

Last and lightest, the 1.4x extender gives me a little more reach with the 200 end of the 70-200mm zoom. Also, it is the essence of the second rule: it adds versatility to several of the other optics should I need it.

I’m scheduled for three weeks in Iceland this year. This will be my third trip in as many years.

With most of the population living in and near Reykjavik, much of Iceland is thinly populated. Even as tourism peaks in the Summer, the countryside outside the Capital area seldom seems crowded. Campgrounds are widely available, fairly priced and, thanks to the open style of camping, don’t really ever fill up in the way that American campgrounds, limited by individual sites, so often do. ¹

It is also easy to stay in places that have ceilings, walls and such. Guesthouses, hotels, hostels, resorts and even rural schools offer weatherproof if often expensive places to stay throughout the country. Unlike the campgrounds, indoor accommodations do fill up in high season so advanced reservations are a very good idea.

So, staying indoors is dry, pricey and inflexible. Car camping, despite the logistics of hauling gear 5000 miles from home, provides the freedom to travel and photograph as weather and whim dictate. Not incidentally, campgrounds typically have hot showers (geothermally heated in some parts of the country) and clean restrooms with flush toilets.

Getting there requires, at least for we West Coast types, both Domestic and International flights. Each has different restrictions on baggage with international, aka IcelandAir, the more restrictive. Since I’m not about to become responsible for a typo that results in a violation of IcelandAir’s baggage policy, you should go here and read it yourself.

Generally, the roads in Iceland are excellent. There are also plenty of rough, 4×4 style roads but the rental car companies don’t want their cars on them. The interior then is basically off limits except to tours, busses, locals and folks who bring their personal vehicles in from Europe. It’s just as well – you only think you want to drive across a glacial melt stream/river. Those giant four wheel drive rigs the locals drive have snorkels for a reason.

Vehicle rental is expensive and the price of fuel is just plain mean. As I type this AutoEurope (I have no interest or affiliation with these folks, they just have lots of my money…) is charging about $600 US per week for your choice of tiny car. Reserving early (as in February) or for travel off peak season can cut this price by one-third. Gasoline is sold by the liter and adds up to better than $8.00 US per gallon. That’s the bad news, the good news is that gasoline is widely available. Most stations are automated. Memorize your credit card pin – it is required in some areas to purchase at the pump.

With the rainfall totals in the Summer months less than you might expect, the wind becomes the most common camping problem. The Europeans are fond of tunnel type tents with large vestibules. After a first trip with a standard issue back packing type tent, I settled on this free-standing tent, complete with a giant wind-stopping vestibule, for year two.

¹ Campgrounds can seem very full on the first weekend in July. This is the traditional start of Icelandic camping season and just about everyone with a tent trailer is out enjoying the 24 hour daylight and summer weather. This is also the only time that Iceland campgrounds get noisy. The rest of the year all is quite by midnight.